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Contrary to popular belief snakes make great pets. They are relatively inexpensive to keep, do not require much exercise, and carry an unmistakable air of mystery.
First and foremost it is obviously important to be certain that your potential new snake is indeed, healthy and ready for life in captivity. Unfortunately, although hatchlings are significantly cheaper than mature snakes, snakes are at their weakest within the first six months from birth. Thus younger snakes are ultimately more open to the risk of disease- so be sure of the signs!
- Ask to handle the snake before you purchase it. This allows you to properly scout for any burns, scars or ticks visible on the surface of the skin.
- Take time to check the eyes of the snake for small mites, and make certain that the snake you decide to take home is not struggling for breath. If gasping occurs, no matter how beautiful the snake is...be sure to hand it back to the shop keeper.
- A further indication of health is how easily the snake feeds; so be sure to see the snake being fed. It is not a rarity for smaller snakes to have not fully adapted to pre-killed mice. If this is the case then the snake will refuse to eat- the only solution being the scenting of lizards, such as skinks being applied to pre-killed mice as a requirement to save the youngster from starvation.
- Be certain to ask for the snake's sex. This can be achieved through a technique called 'probing' or 'popping', and should be preformed by the shop keeper if unsure of the sex of a snake.
- Inquire about the exact sub-species of the snake in question. Vast differences can exist between sub-species, and it is best to be absolutely sure of the size, common personality traits, and natural habitat of your snake.
- Although these precautions may appear a little extensive at first, it is worth remembering that a snake keeper is always looking to recreate the similar conditions of a snake's natural habitat, in captivity. Therefore, if the exact sub-species of a specimen is known it is possible to research the commonalities of the sub-species before handing over your money.
So With The Above In Mind, Which Species Ultimately Suits A Beginner?
It is clear that as a beginner a ten-foot Boa Constrictor is not the wisest of purchases. A snake need not be overtly large to be beautiful, and a large array of other smaller, more easily managed- but no less strikingly beautiful snakes are on offer as a beginner to the serpent world.
None of the following listed species of snake require expensive UV lighting, however all require constant heating:
- The Corn snake is extremely common with hobbysitters; it is easy to keep and reptile shops these days offer some beautiful colour variations. They are docile, readily feed on pre-killed mice, and can reach lengths of up to five feet. Corn snakes take well to regular handing. Temperatures of 26-29 degrees centigrade during the daytime, and 21-24 degrees centigrade at night should suffice. In my experience the Corn snake is an ideal snake, regardless of whether or not you are an inexperienced keeper.
- The brightly colour Milk snake, from the same genus as the King snake, is a striking specimen of a serpent. Ringlets of red, yellow (fading to white with age), and black are found on the upper, and lower segments of the snake's body. Milk snakes rarely reach lengths of over three feet, making them easy to accommodate in the home. However, despite the Milk snake's flamboyant appearance they are not as easy to handle as Corn snakes, often opting to defecate/urinate on one's hand as a warning to potential intruders. Although highly unlikely to bite, Milk snakes hold a rather infamous reputation for being easily panicked. Nevertheless, Milk snakes still make fantastic first snakes- however, they are very secretive and are geared towards keepers whom do not hold the burning desire to handle their snakes every minute of the day. After regular handling Milk snakes do grow more docile- but it takes patience! Comfortable temperatures for Milk snakes range from 25-30 degrees centigrade in the day, and drop to 20-25 degrees at night.
- The King snake is an extremely common snake to be both kept in captivity, and kept as a stand alone pet. Much like the Corn snake, King snakes are widely available in a vast array of colours- including albino. King snakes are comfortable with handling- and with persistent handling become very docile indeed. King snakes have been known to reach lengths of up to five feet, but this varies from sub-species to sub-species. Temperatures of 25-28 degrees centigrade in the day, dropping to 24-26 degrees at night are ideal temperatures.
Ultimately the final call upon which species of snake chosen lies with the keeper. It is important that one finds a species whereby the snake's common traits are aligned with the keeper's expectations. For instance if one wishes to seek beauty over handling- the Milk snake is the obvious choice. However, if handling is a common expectation of your first snake- then the Corn or King snake are conventionally the logical options.
The copyright of the article Snake Advice for Beginners in Snakes is owned by Sebastian King. Permission to republish Snake Advice for Beginners in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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